Subwoofer box design guides
Short, practical answers to the questions every box builder asks, with the math checked against the same engine the calculator uses.
Sealed vs ported subwoofer box: which one should you build?
How sealed and ported enclosures differ in output, size and sound, and how to pick the right one for your driver and your car.
Read the guide →How to calculate subwoofer box volume (net vs gross)
Turn external box dimensions into the net air volume your subwoofer actually sees, with a fully worked example.
Read the guide →How to calculate subwoofer port length
The Helmholtz port formula with end correction, a fully worked slot-port example, and what to do when the port will not fit.
Read the guide →What tuning frequency should your subwoofer box have?
Pick the right port tuning for your driver, your music and your car, and protect the sub below tuning.
Read the guide →Subwoofer port noise: how big should a subwoofer port be?
Why ports chuff, how fast the air can move before you hear it, and how to size and finish a port so it stays quiet.
Read the guide →Thiele/Small parameters explained: what each number means for your box
A plain-English tour of every Thiele/Small parameter on a subwoofer datasheet and how each one shapes box design.
Read the guide →Bandpass subwoofer box explained: 4th order vs 6th order
How 4th and 6th order bandpass boxes work, what they trade away for their extra output, and when one is worth building.
Read the guide →Car cabin gain: what it is and how it changes your subwoofer box
Why a car boosts deep bass, how much it adds, and how to choose box type and tuning with cabin gain in mind.
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